Hometown support at Molly Brown's in Trego, MT
Bernice and Claire
Honor and Essie Pearl have a roll in the snow
Making preparations for leaving on 2009-11 Ride
Honor and Bernice share a tender moment
Trego Farewell, March 20, 2009
Beginning
2009-11 Ride
Friends and Farewells
March 26, 2009
Leaving Eureka, Montana
April 4, 2009
Many cold snowy days
starting out.
April 5, 2009
April 6, 2009
April 18, 2009
..coming across
Eastern Washington..
Palouse Hills..
Beautiful, smooth
open country
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April 19, 2009
Nearing Pine City, Washington
Ladies from the Backcountry Horsewomen
A delightful talk with the children
at the school in Lind, Washington
Pat Stark, whom I met on the
2007 ride and meet again
Nephew Mark Wilson
and girlfriend Anna
out from Spokane
with evening meal
Coming across
Central Washington
on the John Wayne Trail,
once the Milwaukee RR Line
Ray and Sharon Calton
who generously put me up
during inclement weather
Crossing the
Cabinet Mountain Range
Monday, May 10th, 2009
Yakima Nation
Harrah, Washington
The Gwinn Wilson Home
Greetings.. We - Honor, Claire, Essie Pearl and I, make our way slowly westward. Pressing hard against westerly winds that carry intermittent spring snow and rain showers; nights are still cold, but we're no longer freezing water bottles. Daytime temperatures are in the 60's most days. The smell of cool rain on hot pavement and dry dessert sage is ours. Honor's and Essie's winter coats have blown free. They are both strong, fit, moving well, resting well. Claire trots ahead dipping in and out of ditch puddles, creeks and canals. Rain followed us from Sandpoint, Idaho to Othello, WA. Yes, many wet days, but it provided water and cool temperatures across otherwise dry hot stretches.
We crossed over on to the Yakima Tribal land yesterday, May 9th. I came through Toppenish, WA where I stopped to speak with the Tribal Council to pay my respects and to ask permission to cross their land to Glenwood, WA. I greatly appreciate their permitting me to cross the Yakima Tribal Lands as it keeps me off main highways.
I have also stopped to visit with the Gwinn families whom I met in 2007 on my 5000 mile ride with Honor and Claire. In the summer of 2007, Elizabeth Gwinn, her mother Margret, and Sally Wilson stopped on the road near White Swan, WA because they thought I looked "worse than peeked". They set me and the animals up with food and water for the night and then I rode into their place the next day for a three-day visit, with many family members, eating fresh summer foods and touring Toppenish, WA and the surrounding area with Margret and Charles Gwinn. The road looks long as I turn in my saddle to look back. I rode out March 20th from Trego, MT with a foot of snow covering the ground. I had to pack grain and hay every day. I woke up to snow, slept on snow, and rode in snow many days as Nancy Haugen, our Eureka Veterinarian, can confirm. She rode with me for 2 days, camping overnight along the Kootenai River with her two horses. We woke March 27th to a couple of wet inches of snow covering our tents. There was snow on and off until Spokane, WA.
Even though Libby, MT is in the same county as Trego and I have been there often, it still felt like I was riding into a whole new town. I met new faces, gave a couple of talks and got supplies in order. When I left four days later I left with many new friends.
We made our way down Hwy 56 and picked up Hwy 22 into Sandpoint, ID... a long, winding, dangerous road to ride that took me across the Cabinet Mountains. I stayed three days at the fair grounds. The Backcountry Horsewomen came out with a potluck thanks to Debra Gullo. We also picked up a new sponsor, The Sitco Company, makers of top of the line saddle pads. Honor has a great new custom-fit saddle pad. I visited with Robin Campbell, daughter of dear friend MaryEllen Campbell from Eureka, MT. A new Sunbody hat was waiting at the post office for me. Many friendly, curious smiles in Sandpoint.
I made my way along back roads to Post Falls, ID.. a cold and wet stretch. I rarely stay inside away from the horses but I had to get in out of the rain. I spent one night with the Kenny family in Post Falls, then another 2 nights, April 14th & 15th, with Ray and Sharon Calton of Spokane Valley. Claire and I strayed warm inside as it snowed and rained outside. The horses wore blankets and had plenty of grass as well as being treated to a bale of alfalfa, thanks to a generous neighbor. My nephew Mark and his girlfriend Anna Zimmer came out with supper when I was camped south of Liberty Lake along a creek, some 30 miles south of Spokane, WA.
The first time I heard of the John Wayne Trail was from Ray Calton in Liberty Lake, WA. It is the old Milwaukee Railroad Line that runs east-west from Milwaukee to Seattle. It has been turned into a non-motorized trail for horses, hikers and bikes. I picked the trail up as I came into Pine City, WA area. The land had opened with beautiful rolling hills and creeks and rivers running wild. I ate fresh watercress, nettles and dandelion or cooked the watercress with potatoes and onions. More and more green grass shouldered the roads and the horses ate until their bellies were stretched tight. We were treated to spring weather for a few days. We rode past old grain elevators, the ghost towns of Revere, Kenova, Roxboro, Marango, Pizzaro.. Only grain elevators, like discarded old skyscrapers , marked most of these towns. The land in this part of Eastern WA looks more like the open desert country of Wyoming than Washington. High desert mesas mark the horizon. Deep dry ravines cut through the rugged country.
I remember years ago passing the sign to Lind, WA off Hwy 395 that says "drop in sometime. Mount St. Helen did". Well, I thought, I have to see this town. "Charming" is how I'd describe Lind, WA. Grain elevators, trains, a combine demolition derby.. a quiet, pretty town. Dorothy Allert and her son Louis helped with hay and water when I put up at the old rodeo grounds. I was invited to speak at the Lind school and senior center. Sharon Englehart not only helped organize the talk but invited me to shower, wash clothes and use the computer at her house... and I met up with Pat Stark whom I had met on my 2007 ride. Really had a nice stay in Lind.
The John Wayne Trail took us all the way to Warden, WA, the first rattlesnake of the year, and a constant vista of open high desert country. I rode into Warden where Ann Smithwick saw me and asked if I needed help. "I do. I am looking for a place to camp for the night", I replied. She passed me on to a friend in town where I made a camp in an open field. Now the friends were Phil and Sondra Tucker and after we talked a bit we discovered that Sondra has an Aunt Betty Bishoff. The Bishoff families are my neighbors in Trego, MT. We had quite a laugh over that meeting.
I headed south out of Warden. This was the Columbia River Basin I was entering; irrigated land, a massive complex of water canals running from the Columbia River turning the dry desert land into luscious green fields. It is really quite the sight. I rode into Othello with a strong northeasterly wind at my back.... a cold day, and rain was in the forecast, but the Othello fairgrounds were hours ahead when George Colley stopped to visit. George told me the water was off at the fairgrounds and I should come stay with him and his wife Denise while I was in Othello. I was indeed glad I accepted his offer as it rained hard with heavy winds for the next two days.
I had ridden Hwy 24 across the Vernita Bridge over the Columbia River in 2007 on my 5000 mile ride coming from Yakima, WA. It is a long, dangerous bridge, busy with truck traffic. I chose early Saturday morning and made it safely across without incident. Stayed at the Vernita bridge for 2 days. Channel 6 from Yakima, WA came out to interview me. Jana Pekkaar from Seattle came over from Seattle with her son Hugo. More rain and heavy winds as we rode down the highway. We overnighted at the Silver Dollar Cafe and had the best hamburger I had ever tasted. It let down and poured on us May 6th, but we were out of the winds mighty blows behind a small shack, horses blanketed with rain ponchos.
I met Linda Mims-Johnson while at the Silver Dollar Cafe when she stopped in from work at the Hanford Plant. I was sitting at the counter with my hat on another stool when she walked in for a drink. "What a beautiful hat.", she said. Well, that was all we needed. We talked and talked then she offered a place for us to stay at the end of the next days' ride, May 7th. We had two nights at the Mim's pretty home. It was much like an oasis; rich green grass, willow trees draping over a lovely pond surrounded by orchards.
Today is May 10th, Mother's Day, and I have had a wonderful three day visit with the Gwinn families. Food, family and lots of talking and laughter. Today Elizabeth Gwinn, her Mother Margret and Sally Wilson and I drove the route I will take to Trout Lake, WA. We packed a picnic lunch, driving with majestic Mt. Adams in sight. Wild horses dotted the horizon. Trilliums, or wood lilies as they are called here, embellished the grounds. Morel mushrooms were just beginning to poke through the ground. We finished the day with another family get together. Sometimes it is hard to say goodbye; this was one of them. We are off in the morning with Claire sporting a new "saddle pad' to ride atop of Essie Pearl thanks to Sally Wilson and we are loaded with more food than we should have: delicious fry bread, salmon, fruit and cheeses. We will eat well the next five days that it will take to get to Trout Lake , WA. We hope to arrive in Battleground, WA before the end of the month. Until later, Happy Trails and my deepest appreciation to all of those who help, who are interested and send encouragement.
Your Lady Long Rider, Bernice Ende
Warden, Washington
With special thanks to filmmaker Manny Marquez
we have this lovely short movie of Bernice,
Claire, Honor and Essie Pearl.
Ende Home Base
Bernice bathes Honor and
Essie Pearl,
mends Claire's booties,
journals and plans routes
at her camp in Unity, Oregon
new shoes for Honor
August 10, 2009
"Greetings to all of you! One month. That's what it has taken to ride from Weiser, Idaho to Arco, Idaho. One month of mountain riding and some of the most spectacular riding I have ever done in the past four and a half years of long riding. I scarcely saw a fence in the whole of the ride and crossed the Salmon River Mountains, the Sawtooth, the White Knobs and the Pioneers. Just spectacular. Our National Forests are our national treasures and the people who manage and provide services for all of us vacationers should be applauded. I ran out of food west of Stanley and stopped in at the Elk Creek guard station. They were quick to fill my bags with food and send me off. This is not the first time they have helped this long rider and I am so grateful for all the National Forest Service workers do for us from clearing trails to stopping to help with directions. Many THANKS to you folks.
Fro Weiser we headed straight across to Smiths Ferry, then across the Payette river to Bear Valley to Stanley, where I was put up at the Salmon River Lodge owned by nationally know journalist Karen Day. We then headed down to Ketchum, then across Copper Basin where the bugs and flies were horrendous, but thanks to Teddy Rice's herbal insect repellant, bed sheets and fly masks, we were OK. (If you want more information on the herbal fly repellent check out Teddy's card on our sponsor page.) We crossed into Antelope Valley, then over the foot hills of the White Knobs where I got lost for a day, and the wind and rain tried to blow us off the mountain top. We survived and are now in Arco, Idaho at the rodeo grounds, resting, eating and cleaning horse gear. We head out this evening across the Snake River Plains, flat open land that looks like smooth sailing to us after all of the mountain riding we have just done. We are well, the horses have sleek summer coats and full round bellies from the luscious long stem grasses.
A warm and hearty thank you to all of you who helped and offered encouragement. Our next long stop will be Soda Springs, Idaho where we will pick up mail and look at the Utah stretch. To all of you, may your trails be good ones.
Sincerely, Long Rider Bernice Ende"
"Bernice's journey touched my life.."
..a lovely note from Betty Duncan, Antelope Creek, Oregon
"I first saw Bernice and crew when I was heading to work one morning, June 26, 2009. I was driving to Baker City from my home on Antelope Creek near Hereford, Oregon, a trip of 50 miles. I had just driven by an RV and trailer parked near the North Fork Burnt River and I was approaching the old ghost town of Whitney when I notice a lady rider leading two horses, her dog trotting out in front. I thought to myself, :here's a snobby rich woman who drivers her RV out to a forest road just to ride her horses and walk her dog a mile or two."
On my trip that afternoon when I was almost home, there was that lady rider again, shaking out saddle blankets, making camp for the night further down the river, no RV and trailer anywhere in sight. "Wow. She's camping out here in cougar country all alone. She's a brave soul or crazy. She surely must have someone coming here to meet up with her."
Later that evening at home my boyfriend Jim and his buddy Shane told the latest gossip of a lady long rider who was supposed to be camped up the road in the forest. She was from Montana, Shane's home state, so he was bound and determined to drive up and find her camp and invite her down to the house for a dinner of fried morel mushrooms. Jim and I told him she'd shoot him for stepping into her camp at dusk, that if he insisted on going, he'd better get up there and find her before it got too dark. Turns out she greeted him warmly, but declined his invitation for dinner, hoping she could instead stop by in the morning for breakfast.
When she came down the road the next morning, I walked out to greet her as she dismounted and tethered her horses to graze. Bernice was the furthest thing from being that rich lady I'd envisioned her to be at first glance a couple days prior. She was so vivacious, heart warming, far from shy with strangers, and we all settled down to a hearty breakfast. The conversation flowed amongst us, just like we were all old friends. I invited Bernice to stay as long as she liked, make herself at home, enjoy a nice warm shower, washer and dryer, Internet and telephone. There was even a nice bedroom upstairs she was welcome to if she wanted the comfort of a soft bed instead of the cold hard ground. Claire was more than welcome as well. Jim, Shane and I had a morning's work of delivering firewood in Unity. Here I was walking out he door leaving my home to a complete stranger I'd only just met, and I had no qualms about it.
Upon our return we found an excited Bernice on the front porch, looking like the lady of the house folding laundry and packing away fresh sheets and bedding back into saddle bags. She had been able to call friends, check her e-mail, and make arrangements to have friends meet her and camp out for the weekend. Much to her delight she would be able to continue on her journey from this point after all, and not change her route as her heart and soul had been nagging her to do. When her friends arrived that evening we all headed back up the river and helped them set up camp. When leaving to head back home I felt content knowing I'd be seeing her once again in a couple days as she continued along her route.
I took the day off from work, not wanting to miss another chance to visit with this inspiring woman. It was heart wrenching to see her leave. I'd met a true pioneer spirit sharing her positive attitudes of living a slower paced life.. taking nothing for granted, but instead sharing her kindness and wisdom, appreciating genuine hospitality from the folks she meets along the way.
Bernice is courageous and a most genuine soul to journey through life warming most every heart along the way just as she did mine. May the Great Spirit protect and guide her and her entourage every step, every mile of every journey.
I send my best wishes and gratitude to this special Lady Long Rider, Bernice Ende. I most sincerely hope our trails will meet again. -Betty Duncan"
from John McClain, August 7, 2009
HELLO TO HOME BASE..
MY WIFE, DAUGHTER AND I WERE OUT AND ABOUT IN THE CHALLIS NATIONAL FOREST WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 5TH WHEN WE HAPPENED ON TO BERNICE AND CREW ASCENDING ANTELOPE PASSE. SHE HAD SOME QUESTIONS ABOUT THE ROUUT SHE HAD PLANNED ON HER MAP AND I GAVE HER MY BEST KNOWLEDGE OF THE AREA IN QUESTION. WE WENT ABOUT OUR SEPARATE WAYS AFTER A SHORT VISIT. WE WERE RIDING OUR ATV'S AND LATER TURNED AROUND AND HEADED BACK TO CAMP. ON OUR WAY BACK WE TALKED ABOUT SUPPER AND FIGURED THAT BERNICE HAD NOT HAD A GOOD HOME COOKED MEAL IN SOME TIME, SO IT WAS PLANNED THAT IF SHE HAD CHANGED HER ROUTE WE WOULD INVITE HER TO SUPPER. AS IT WAS WE FOUND HER ON OUR RETURN TO CAMP. OUR CAMP WAS A FEW MILES OUT OF THE WAY SO IT WAS BETTER FOR US TO BRING SUPPER TO HER AT ANTELOPE GUARD STATION WHERE SHE HAD PLANNED TO SET UP CAMP FOR THE NIGHT.
WE LEFT HER A FEW MILES FROM THE GUARD STATION AND SET OUT FOR OUR CAMP TO MAKE SUPPER. I ENJOY COOKING IN MY DUTCH OVENS SO IT WAS A GIVEN THAT I WOULD COOK IN THEM AND THAT THE CAST IRON OVENS WOULD KEEP THE FOOD HOT FOR THE RIDE BACK TO BERNICE'S CAMP. I COOKED PORK STEAK WITH POTATOES AND CORN IN ONE OVEN AND MY WIFE KAREN COOKED GREEN BEANS FROM OUR GARDEN IN THE OTHER. WE LOADED THE OVENS ON ONE ATV AFTER WIRING THE LIDS ON TO KEEP FROM MAKING A MESS AND PUT MY DAUGHTER KRYSTA'S WATERMELON, OREO COOKIES, MILK AND SUCH IN A TOTE ON THE OTHER.
AS WE HEADED BACK TO BERNICE'S CAMP A THUNDER STORM STARTED TO BREW AND WAS HITTING US HARD AS WE ARRIVED AT HER CAMP. WE ALL TOOK SHELTER, AS BEST WE COULD FIND, TO WAIT OUT THE STORM. ONCE THE LIGHTNING AND HAIL HAD PASSED AND ONLY A LIGHT RAIN WAS FALLING, WE CAME OUT AND HAD ANOTHER NICE VISIT OVER SUPPER AS DARKNESS BEGAN TO FALL. KRYSTA FED WATERMELON RINDS TO HONOR AND ESSIE PEARL AND OUR DOGS AS WELL AS CLAIRE GOT TABLE SCRAPS.
AS WITH EVERYTHING,THIS VISIT TOO MUST END AND WE WENT BACK TO CAMP FOR THE NIGHT. WE TOLD BERNICE THAT ONCE WE GOT HOME WE WOULD SEND AN E-MAIL AS TO HER WHEREABOUTS AND TO LET EVERYONE KNOW THAT SHE AND CREW ARE DOING WELL AND SHOULD BE IN ARCO , IDAHO ON THURSDAY EVENING, HEADED FOR BLACKFOOT THEREAFTER. KRYSTA TOOK SOME PICTURES AND I WILL ATTATCH SOME ON THIS MESSAGE. TAKE CARE EVERYONE, AND WE WILL VISIT THE WEBSITE FROM TIME TO TIME TO SEE HOW THINGS ARE GOING. SINCERELY, JOHN, KAREN AND KRYSTA McCLAIN
Interview with Bernice
by Greg Grant and Linda Vigil
of Altered State Records,
recorded March 21, 2009.
Greetings to all of you that follow the ride.
We have spent a much needed relaxing 5 days at the Montpelier Fairgrounds, the Bear County Fairgrounds.
In two days we will be in Utah and the long ride through Idaho will be over. A touch of cool autumn air can be felt and it reminds me of the mountains I must cross in south central Colorado before snow covers the peaks, before ice covers the lakes and ponds. We must be in New Mexico, safely at my sister's home for a 2 week visit by mid-October.
I write from the Montpelier Library, one of the nicest small town libraries I have had the pleasure to stop at.
The decor is colonial and there are birds, song birds that fill the empty spaces with such delightful sounds coming from behind me. I consider our small town libraries one of our national treasures along with our national forest. This is one of the blue ribbon libraries.
When I last e-mailed it was from Arco, Idaho where we had stopped for a short rest at the rodeo grounds. From Arco we traveled south across the flat open space of the Snake River Valley. A long hot ride to Atomic City where the mayor, Kelli Isaacs, found us accommodations at the RV park. It is a tiny little town and had that old west feel to it; it was a "community of misfits" Don said with a smile. Don was Kelli's friend and owned the RV park. A long full day's ride from Atomic City to the Snake River landing me on the Shoshone-Bannock Tribal Land. It was late when I finally had to ride into a home asking for a place to camp and for water. It was Sherwin Racehorse who kindly let us camp on his front yard, fed Claire and I, offered a hot shower and helped with securing papers would allow us to cross the beautiful Tribal Lands east of Fort Hall.
Shortly after leaving the reservation I rode into Chersterfield, Idaho, a Morman town that was settled via the Oregon Trail route whose ruts could still be seen in many places. I get a small taste of what it mush have been like for those tenacious people, but even I wonder :how did they do it"?
Soda Spring was the next town. I rode in just as the Senior Citizens were arriving for their afternoon lunch at the downtown Senior Center. I tied up the horses and went in to give a talk and to have lunch. An enthusiastic bunch greeted us and we left with full bellies (the horses were given bags of apples) and full packs. We spent the night on the outskirts of town and then gave a talk to the elementary school who thought the idea of a dog riding a horse both funny and curious. They were loaded with questions.
And that brings me to Montpelier where I have been staying at the fairgrounds. Last night I had two visitors from a northern town, a young couple who are planning a ride across the United States and came to dig up all they could from my years of riding. I get many e-mails from people planning to do a long ride, but unless they are willing to come and visit with me it is impossible to share all that I have learned from the past 12,000 miles of long riding via e-mail or phone. I wish them the best on their venture.. their adventure.
So now we leave in the morning, August 26th. Evanston, Wyoming will be my next mail stop and from there I head south to Grand Junction, Colorado. The horses are fit and fat and when I turn them out in the arena in the morning after spending the night in a stall they race around farting and kicking and squealing up a storm. They have bright eyes and eagerness in their step. They bicker back and forth about this and that but they can not be separated. We have ridden through yet another summer. The heat, the bugs, the long slow days are over, replaced with an urging from the coming fall weather. Claire's doggie couch as I call it, has been a success and Claire no longer walks even half the day. She likes her ride and Essie Pearl is careful with her passenger.
As we say goodbye to Idaho, I send out a hearty thank you to all of you who helped with a safe passage across your beautiful state. Until later, Bernice
August 25, 2009
Maria Bruno Bridgeport, Oregon
Smith Ferry, Idaho
East Oregon
Crossing the Sawtooth Mountain Range
Flys..Oh My, Oh My!
Sawtooth Mountain Range
Galena Pass
East Oregon
Claire in her fly apparel
Going down that long lonesome highway
Dennis Beverland brought out water and food on the long stretch from Arco to Fort Hall.
Thank you, Dennis.
Snake River Valley plains
Near Fort Hall Resevation
Talking at Soda Springs Middle School
September 29, 2009
A phone call from Bernice finds our travelers doing well. They are appreciative guests at the Lars Naslund Ranch in Nucla, Colorado.
Bernice will be returning e-mails from Delores, Colorado in about a weeks time. Happy Trails!
The Road to Oregon
October 10, 2009
We.. Claire, Essie Pearl, Honor and I arrived in Dolores, Colorado October 8th;
a windy day, but warm sun later in the fall. These are old towns down here and Dolores was named by Spanish Catholic priests who came through the area seeking routes from the missions in
Santa Fe, New Mexico to California in 1776. Rio de Nuestra Senora de las Dolores, or
The River of Our Lady of Sorrows was first named by Dominguez and Escalante, Spanish missionaries.
My first night in town I spent at the old cemetery west of town that sits along a roughed boulder cliff
with Mc Phee reservoir to my south. Loretta from the post office brought us a bale of hay and we had a good spot after all. So many times I say I feel like a ghost from the past. Well here I was a ghost from the past spending a quiet evening with other ghosts from the past.
But let me go back to Vernal, Utah where I last e-mailed an update September 10th about the ride.
It was a one month crossing from Vernal, Utah to Dolores, Colorado; about 350 miles, maybe more.
The roads I took were slow winding back roads, National Forest Service roads and BLM roads.
I had spent five days at the Heritage park in Vernal. It houses the fair grounds, museum and event facility.. very nice. The whole town of Vernal was decorated with hanging baskets and huge pots of colorful flowers. So very pretty. I knew I was going to be crossing some long dry stretches of desert country south to Fruita, Colorado, so I ran out hay drops thanks to the Eric Powell family who so
kindly drove me out in the pickup with hay. The day before I left a horrendous storm blew in and Oh,
did it rain! It was good fortune for us because it left puddles for days. And that meant my horses never went without water. I also met another long rider while in Vernal. Now, to meet another long rider who has done a long ride is one thing, but to actually meet one riding is another thing. Joan Wallace reminded me of myself on my first ride as she was traveling with one Quarter horse mare and 2 dogs and had come up fro Northern Oklahoma heading for the NW corner of Washington. We went out for dinner and talked our legs off. She had stayed at several places that I had stayed on my 5000 mile ride in 2006. It was fun comparing notes. Hope she does OK. I am heading south into winter, she is heading north into the winter.
So the four of us left Vernal, Utah September 16th, 2009 with lots of heavy truck traffic from the mining operations in that area. It is wide open, vast land that can either swallow you up with intimidation or awe. We had water in the mining town of Bonanza and there was the Green River and then there were puddles. And I said to my self that the only way to cross a desert is to follow a storm. We stopped at a hunting camp for breakfast the second morning out and then made it over Baxter Pass, camping at the bottom as we were worn out after the climb up and over. The next day began well enough, but about noon a storm came raging in and it was a downpour. I ducked into a corral that had an old out house that was still standing and had a good roof remaining. There I stood with the horses heads inside while the packs were covered well and kept the rain off the horses backs. One more night and two full days landed us in Fruita, Colorado where the Country Co-op Store let me camp in a field across from the store. They were a big help with feed and information crossing down into Nucla. While I was in town (with my horses in tow) I stopped at the library for maps. As I was tying up the horses to go inside I mate Grace May Chew, daughter of the late, legendary poet, rancher and writer, Bill May from the Steamboat Springs area. Grace thought it was nuts to ride across the Grand Junction area and as she was a seasoned horsewoman herself I took her advice, which was for her to haul me over to the Whitewater area. And so she came and got me that evening and off we went to the Unaweep Canyon where I set up a camp next to the creek. Monica Wertenberger stopped by while I was still in bed that cold morning, bringing me supplies she thought I might need to cross over to Nucla. I had met Monica on Baxter Pass crossing five days earlier.
I just cannot thank these people enough who help like this! I have said it once and I will say it again, could not do these rides without a lot of help from others. We headed up the Uncompahgre National Forest, climbing the high steep mesa Divide Road that runs north/south through some of the most spectacular country I have ridden through: dancing aspen groves, all golden and crisp like wind chimes, that decorated the fall day with a rich sky so blue I wanted to stop and just look, just not move in this colorful panorama. The scrub Oak was every shade of red that one could imagine. Lots of handsome cowboys managing fat healthy cattle herds on National Forest lands. Frozen water bottles in the mornings. Rose Hip bushes covered the hill sides with rose hips the size of small cherry tomatoes hanging like rubies.
A few miles from the town of Nucla another cowboy pulled up next to me with a truck and trailer hauling a saddled horse. It was Lars Naslund and the Naslund ranch ran cattle on the Uncomphagre and he was just heading home. . . did I want a ride. I couldn't help myself. This guy looked just like Hoss on Bonanza. Even his hat was a Hoss hat and it turns out it was a Sunbody hat same as mine. He had an extra house that was vacant, and did I want to stay there? So, I got to meet and have dinner with the Naslund family, Vanna, Lars' wife, JW, an up and coming 4 year old cowboy. And there was the newest baby and Grandpa Monte. Lars ran me around town to get supplies and there I was set for a few days while it stormed with madness outside. The horses had shelter. I reshod, made new booties of Claire out of cowhide Lars had, gave a talk at the school in Naturita thanks to Brittany Hibbert who made arrangements for me to speak there, washed clothes and slept until late in the morning. Earlane Antonio gave a dinner party where I met several Cattle Women Association members. There was fresh garden vegetables everywhere and apples were ripe. It was a 'fill'er up' stop.
We left Nucla heading south to Basin. Had dinner with Lane Koon (she made me a T-bone steak that I thought was the most delicious piece of meat that I had ever eaten.). She and her husband own an dog grooming and no cage dog sitting business called WASH AND WATCH. Next day got me as far as Miromante Lake where I hunkered down for two days while a storm moved in and let the world have it. Hunters were out and about, the cow camps were busy, and it did not seem at all like I was riding across remote country. Four more days and three lovely campsites later we reached Dolores, Colorado. It was such a quick stretch from Vernal to Dolores, I told the girls we had to get into second gear because winter was on our heels. From Dolores we head for Cuba, New Mexico, then to Madrid where I will stay with the Adlers, Leslie and Jerry, whom I met five years ago on my first ride through New Mexico. Leslie is a veterinarian and will give the girls a thorough examination. I will put up in Madrid for a week or so before heading down to Edgewood to my sister's for another two week lay over...
Then we must look Texas squarely in the face.
Until later.... to all of you who have helped me make these rides possible with food, encouragement, donations and/or just and invitation in for a shower.... Many, many heart-felt Thank You's!
Happy Trails.
Bernice Ende, Lady Long Rider
November 2009
Bernice has arrived safely at her sister's
in Edgewood, New Mexico and are taking a month's rest. All are in good health
and needing a break.
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December 19, 2009
Greetings to all of you that follow the rides,
The horses are shedding their Montana winter coats already! We are in Roswell, New Mexico, S.E.New Mexico state Fairgrounds. The temperatures are in the 60's, skies are sunny (they had 6 inches of snow 2 weeks ago) birds, birds, birds singing with delight. It feels like I've stepped back into summer.
We were greeted with smiles, waving hands and honks from passing cars and trucks as we made our way slowly and carefully down Hwy. 285, under the overpass along strip mall stores and businesses left and right of us, busy 4-lane traffic at the intersections. I bump the cross walk button with my Ariat toe boot as I sit in the saddle on Honor. Bravely, bravely my Honor makes her way; the sharp sound of steel horseshoes on cement and pavement. Her ears peaked, eyes on caution, full attention, her head at the bow, trusting, always trusting, waiting for cues from me. "easy girls, easy" I say quietly. I actually had not planned on riding into Roswell, thinking that my two horses would be "too fresh" after a 7 week layover. But 15 miles north of town a suburban truck stopped, the window rolling down, smiles on two faces stretching to look out. "we were just curious, where are you going?". I call these people the curious and the interested and I am forever grateful to those who stop to visit. And here was yet another reason why.... It turns out these two faces belonged to Russ and Rance Rogers, from Roswell, NM. Brothers out on a trip together, packed with sleeping bags, food and cameras. Out came the camera's, (Rance is a professional photographer). By the time they drove down the rode I felt I had made a couple of new friends that had filled my saddle bags with water and snacks, and... called ahead to their folks Kay and Dale Rogers, owners of the Roswell Livestock and Farm Supply letting them know of my arrival on the 16th.
The winter sunshine was already losing it's strength by the time I rode into Roswell Livestock and Farm Supply on the southeast corner of town. But to ride into handshakes and smiles was enough sunshine for me. "Feed Stores" are important places to me and I have ridden into countless feed stores over the years. Supplying me with hay, oats, horseshoes, directions, a place to tie up, a place to "put up" (camp). They are usually friendly places to begin with. The sound of cowboy boots on wood floors, the smell of hay and leather and feed supplies. Local ranchers and farmers standing together visiting. Cowboy hats atop lean brown, tanned men, catching up on local news, taking a break between the ceaseless work that their lives require of them. You can find out a lot about a community from the local feed store.
But I must say from the get go I knew this was not the everyday run of the mill "feed store" that Kay and Dale Rogers owned. It is not the impressive inventory that made it so remarkable. But the quality of care and interest that was shown throughout the dozens of employees and family members that worked there. Dale quickly called over to make arrangements for me to stay at the fairgrounds, hay and oats were brought over, Fruits and veggies spilled out from a bag for me and the horses and after dozens of hand shakes that left me feeling like a celebrity, we headed over to the fairgrounds to make camp.
We have been in Roswell 3 days now and the kindness and generosity from the Rogers Clan and all of those here at the Roswell Livestock and Farm Supply has been heart warming. But there is more.....Michael Holmes from the truck and tire department made Claire a new doggie couch!!!!! and it is a masterpiece as you can see by the photos. Oh, I just do not think he understands how much I needed, how important this contraption is for Claire's well being. I simply can not thank him enough. Michael came up with a safe, strong and light box that is engineered to fit securely on the Trail Max saddle pack from Outfitters Supply. And it looks so good!! I had trouble getting Claire out of the box and inside the tent last night. Thank you Michael, Thank you.
I also had a lovely lunch with the Ortega's, Steve and Cicilia who read about the ride in the Albuquerque Journal and emailed an invite before I even arrived in Roswell. I met and had dinner with Ted Beeley, the brother of legendary cowboy artist Joe Beeley. Dozens of folks came out to visit after the local newspaper did a nice article (see media page). It is hard to imagine riding 1000's of miles across wide open spaces; the sights, the sounds, the animals... It is all remarkable, but I must also say that it is the people that are the embellishment of the ride. I so enjoy the sharing of the ride with others.
But I really must look at leaving on Monday the 21st. We don't travel very far very fast, so if I don't keep moving Texas will never be under foot. Desiree Garcia(Rogers) will be handling the website for a time until my sister Carol takes it over so look for fresh new changes there. I still must re-shod Essie Pearl. When I was at my sister's in Edgewood her Farrier Brad Dirickson was kind enough to spend some time with me going over the principles of Natural Balance Hoof Care and I will be incorporating those techniques that seem like common sense to my amateur horseshoeing skills. Horses are rested and look great. We now head for Hobbs, NM a 7 day ride taking the back roads thru Dexter and Hagerman.
I wrote in my journal last night as I reviewed the stop here at Roswell. I thought about the Roswell Livestock and Farm Supply business that Dale and Kay Rogers own and manage with humor, love and concern that spills over into every employee that works at that incredibly busy store and is shown the custumers that shop there. And I thought, you know this would never happen at Wal-Mart. These are places that make me proud to be part of this country, these are people that make the world a better place.
Happy Trails, Happy Holidays, sincerely Bernice Ende Long rider
Claire's new doggie couch!
December 25, 2009
Bernice sends warm holiday greetings to everyone!! She spent Christmas at the Gomez home - a lovely hacienda of the Rancho del Rio east of Hagerman, New Mexico. Her and the critters are warm, safe and dry!
Coming across Baxter Pass, between Vernal, Utah and
Grand Junction, Colorado in late August 2009.
Baxter Pass, Utah
August 2009
Bernice with Dale and Kay Rogers, owners of Roswell Livestock and Farm Supply
Heading out of Roswell, New Mexico
Christmas 2009 was pretty special... I was camped off the Pecos River 5 miles east of Hagerman on December 23rd. Woke to rain and temperatures dropping. I was safe and dry but as happens so many times help arrived via Greg Barbie with hot coffee, cookies and an invite from the Gomez family of the Rancho del Rio just up the road.
Oh my, I thought - so close to Christmas I'll be disturbing them. But the invite held and so I made a break for it and rode into a lovely home for a wonderful, memorable Christmas with Dale and Elsie Gomez and the many that came and went over the holiday.
Honor and Essie Pearl had cover from the snow that fell Christmas Eve and a corral with alfalfa hay. Claire had friends as you can see and after Elsie said a blessing over our feast we all sat at a long beautifully set table for food, talk and laughter.
I can't thank the Gomez's enough I felt like I had been taken in like a daughter and was at home for the holidays. Gracias, Gracias!
January 2, 2010
UPDATE!
Kyle Taubert in Gaines County, Texas (about 9 miles East of the New Mexico state line) just sent in an email saying that Bernice stopped by his cotton gin and visited for a while. Her and her girls are doing great!
January 7, 2010
Just received an update from Bernice - They are in Andrews, Texas and she says that all are well. They are hunkered down for the cold spell, but Bernice ventured out and gave a talk to Senior Center in Andrews. They will ride out on Saturday the 9th and will head out South, crossing between Odessa and Midland. Their next stop is 8 days or so away in the town of Mertzon.
January 13, 2010
The Bowling family wrote in to say that Bernice stayed on their ranch near Midland, Texas on January 11th. They said, "she was an absolute pleasure and joy to get to know, and without a doubt one of the most fascinating persons we have had the privilege to know. What she is doing is both inspiring and incredible." Thank you to the Bowlings, and to all of you that have helped Bernice along the way!
January 29, 2010
Greetings, it has been a while since I last updated and even as I begin this update I realize that there is too much to write about in the short time I have at this computer in the Eldorado, TX library.
Let me go back to Hobbs, NM where I had put up at Harold Pruitt's home, waiting out a cold snap, snow and bitter winds inside a comfortable trailer with the horses under cover in comfortable stalls next to me. Harold was a friend of the folks from Roswell Livestock and Farm Supply and had called long before I had arrived in Hobbs offering a place to stay as the weather conditions were predicted.
I rode into Texas on January 1st 2010, what a way to start the new year!! With cold clear winds at our backs we made our way along busy roads, busy with oil truck business. I had no idea that this area is one of the largest oil producing areas in the country, WOW! We have been riding ditches, fortunately these are wide mowed ditches that stretch along the flat, open spaces of West Texas. Now, Texas is a big state, indeed; one only need look at the map to see that, but what the map will not tell nor show is the hospitality that is as big as the state itself. It has simply been unbelievable....
It began in Andrews where Tom Tyler met me as I rode in about 1pm down the busy working mans town. Well, Tom just stopped to say hello but he ended up being a very generous host. He made sure I had a place to stay, hay for the girls, arranged a talk at the senior center and an interview at the local radio station. Thank you Tom and Judy!
So folks from Andrews called ahead, and 18 miles down the road Jeff Huckabee came out with a horse trailer after dark to get me in off the road to the Odessa Rodeo College facility. I was to give a talk at the West Texas Cowboy Church the next day so I had to get myself in that evening. The Odessa Rodeo College program is an impressive place and rodeo talent is fostered and developed here from all over the country.
"I have never seen so many cowboy hats in church." That was my opening statement. What they lacked in their not quite finished church they made up for with a western style Sunday service. I really enjoyed it. Mike from the church called ahead to Roy Bowling, a two day ride south. It was a dangerous freeway crossing on 1788 between Odessa and Midland, but I was helped by Judy Hathock and her husband who stopped after reading about my rides in the Andrews paper. She followed me safely across a very hectic noisy, truck stop, oil industrial section that could have been risky for any seasoned long rider.
I spent one night at the Bowling's corral off 1788 and what a lovely family. I meet families like this and I am so hopeful for our communities, our country, and our children. Roy also ran out a hay and water drop for my next night camped off the highway 15 miles down the road. Laura, Roy's wife, sent little Kate their daughter with a feast for Claire and I. Thank you so very much, to so many good people who stop and help. It just seems too much some times, I feel I can't say thank you enough.
We overnighted in Midkiff in the fire hall with help from Cowboy Dane Driver with hay and water again. More rain had me put up at Mike Schneider's pole barn. Mike has done a few short rides and I saw a old black and white newspaper clipping of him and his wife on a 200 mile ride a few years ago. I thought he looked like John Wayne.
The ghost town of Stiles, TX was another day's ride. Stiles is a ghost town which held the county seat until the railroad and Big Lake took it from the little town. Now all that remains are a few dilapidated buildings and the crumbled stones of the historical court house. Before I came into town Deputy Sheriff Josh Mitchell stopped to see if I needed anything. Before I could answer he was off and came back with a sack of feed and sent word on to his father in law who lived nearby to check on me in Stiles.
Well, then I met the Mathews; Jim, Linda, and their teenage daughter Julie and they brought out hay, water and a Sunday spaghetti dinner!!! I tell you I am gaining weight. While I was in Stiles, Sam Goodings and his wife Kate caught up with me to put horseshoes on the girls. I met Sam at Roy Bowlings home and was so impressed with this farrier that I asked if he would put shoes on Essie and Honor. (I do my own shoeing throughout the year, but once a year I feel I need a professional to put the shoes on, get a good balanced foot and just go over how the feet look.) I wish you could have seen these two, and heard the sound of handmade horseshoes taking shape. Like an artist with precision hands, the tap, tap ting, tap ting, of the hammer, not pounding away, but gently shaping hot steel. His quick hands moved with grace and skill. It was beautiful to watch, and the back drop was the old historical court house for this long time held craft of horseshoeing. The horses proudly wear their new horseshoes.
The next day I rode out started out like any other day, a clear sunny morning. I must have rode 10 miles when a pickup stopped and a handsome young cowboy stepped out and said with a smile " I've heard of you"... As is the custom in this part of the country, this young handsome cowboy quickly removed his hat, placed it on his chest and with a nod said " pleasure to meet you Mam." Oh I do love that - manners. Gerhard Holt, 6th generation rancher stood before me. He called ahead to Wanda Able's home for a place to put up. With that arranged, he was off.
Now here is where I should have my head examined! As I was going along minding my own business, I suddenly found myself standing before a starving little puppy under a bag of plastic and debris........... I said "No, please, no I can't do this"..... Well, now there are FIVE girls traveling along the highways of small town America. And that's where I'll leave it and finish the story as it does get better...
Happy Trails to all of you!
Bernice
Giving a talk at the Senior's
Center in Andrews, Texas
Our new addition!! Meet Frances!
February 15, 2010
Steve Roberts from Midland, Texas sent in this video of Bernice's grand entrance into Luckenbach, Texas. Thanks to the people of Luckenbach for the barbeque (and the Tres Leche Cake!!!!)
